Fall Tips, Tricks and FAQs.
Remodeling Services and General Contracting Home Improvements by Cortese Brothers
 
Cortese Brothers ConstructionServing Buffalo and Western New York
 
Leaky Roofs - Quick cures for the common leak...
Furnace Filters
HELPFUL HINTS...
How To Unclog A Drain
Ready, Set Paint
Kitchen - Out With The Bad Air





Leaky Roofs - Quick cures for the common leak...

Leaks can be baffling to trace. Water may enter a cracked roof vent, slip into a seam and follow a sloped roof rafter, then creep along the drywall and dribble from a ceiling light fixture 10 feet or more from the point of entry. Begin your leak investigation with a trip to the attic during a rain shower (or while an accomplice sprays water on the roof using a garden hose). You may have to pull the insulation away and contend with dust, mold and general gross stuff, so wear gloves, a dust mask, and long pants and a shirt. Equip yourself with a flashlight or extension light,too. Mark the leaks you find with chalk, the note where they are in reference to a chimney or end wall so you can locate them when you go on the roof.

When the roof is dry, climb up to it after safely positioning your extension ladder. Investigate the leaking section and the area above. If you're lucky, you'll find something obvious - a missing shingle, protruding nails, your kid's tarzan spear.

Otherwise, look carefully for the following:

  • Shingles, vents and valleys that have been loosened or torn by wind, ice hail or tree limbs.
  • Missing, curled or cracked shingles.
  • Missing or dried out caulk - especially around masonry chimneys and skylights.
  • Metal flashings (which direct water away from chimneys and other areas) that have pulled away from the shingles or chimney.
  • Sagging sections of roof, indicating rotted roof boards, plywood or rafters (get off the roof pronto, and call a pro).

    If your leak occurs only during a rainstorm accompanied by strong winds, you need to look in less obvious places. Wind could be forcing the water up and under shingles, up into vents, or sideways between your shingles and roof sheathing at the eaves. Your best chance of tracing this leak is to watch from inside your attic as someone simulates a storm with a hose spraying hard at a horizontal angle.

    QUICK TIPS FOR LEAKY ROOFS

    Seal at top of storm collar—run silicone caulk where collar meets chimney stack.

    Leaking plumbing stack—Peel back the shingles that overlap onto the upper half of the vent flashing, them remove old vent. Install neoprene boot flashing and reinstall shingles.

    Cement chimney cap is cracked —Brush off loose and dirt. Force butyl caulk into the cracks, then smooth.

    Counterflashing has pulled out from between the bricks—Scrape out all the old loose mortar using first a chisel, then a wire brush. Push flashing back in place, then fill the mortarjointwith butyl caulk. Also seal the joint where counterflashing overlaps the step flashing.


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    Furnace Filters

    Furnace air filters perform a critical role in the effectiveness of a forced-air heating system. Changing or cleaning the filter regularly is a simple and inexpensive way to lower your energy bill and add years to the life of your furnace.

    A filter serves two important functions in a forced-air heating systems: first, it protects the furnace blower and heater element or combustion chamber from dust; second it cuts down on the amount of dust in your home by trapping airborne particles that otherwise would be recirculated throughout your house. By keeping the filter clean, you can save on energy costs. Dirt buildup in the filter can slow the intake of air into the furnace, forcing the fan motor to work harder and consume more energy. If the filter becomes completely clogged, the furnace could overheat and automatically shut off.

    Check your furnace monthly during the winter by pulling the filter out and hold it up to the light; if you cannot see light through the filter, it needs to be changed or cleaned. Furnace filters come in two basic varieties: disposable and reusable. Regardless of which type you use, it is a good idea to keep several extra ones on hand.


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    HELPFUL HINTS...
    Swinging Storage:

    As soon as cold weather comes, hang your hammock from the garage ceiling with two eye hooks, then fill it with balls, chair cushions, kids riding toys and other summer accessories. Your hammock will stay fresh and your garage floor will be less cluttered.

    Water Heater Life Saver:

    To extend the life of your water heater, once a month draw a pail of water from the bottom of your tank. This helps to remove dirt and residue buildup that could damage your heating elements.

    Sure Shot Applicator:

    Anytime you need to get glue, oil or caulk into a tight space, use a disposable irrigation syringe available at pharmacies. The tips are curved and the taper lets you snip them at different points to adjust the opening size.

    Attractive Organizer:

    Help keep your workshop organized by using a magnetic-strip knife holder to hang chisels, punches, screwdrivers, and other metal tools.

    Clean Wipe:
    Clean your foggy car windows fast with a felt chalkboard eraser. It works better than your handkerchief and it's faster than waiting for the defroster.


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    How To Unclog A Drain

    Drains clog up sometimes. It's part of life—everywhere. Make your first assault on a clogged drain with Drano or a liquid clog dissolver such as Liquid Plumber or S-T Drain Opener. Most of these will pass through standing water. Be careful with this stuff! It can burn your skin or your eyes. Follow the safety instructions on the label exactly.

    If a dissolver fails, use the plunger. But be careful that any caustic cleaner remaining in the drain doesn't splash into your eyes. Most sinks and tubs have either two drains or an over flow drain, and you have to cover this second opening tightly with a damp rag to generate the necessary suction and pressure with the plunger. The flexible wire snake would be the last resort if the plunger doesn't work. First try working it down through the sink drain, since the clog might be right in the trap. However, if the clog is farther down the line, you'll probably need to remove the trap and tram arm, then feed the snake as far into the drain as necessary to reach the clog.


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    Ready, Set Paint

    A professional looking paint job depends not only on the quality of the paint used, but also on how well you prepare your home for the topcoat. For the best results, scout the job and determine what needs help. Here are five common problems you may encounter:

  • Multiple layers of paint crack and give way, parting company from the underlying layers. Remove the paint down to the bare wood; prime.
  • Dirt, mildew, and rust must go before painting. Failure to eliminate these offenders creates adhesion problems that shorten the topcoat's life.
  • Flaking and peeling paint results from moisture, poor application, inferior paint, and painting a surface that's too smooth. Abrade troubled areas so only firm paint remains on the surface.
  • Chalking on the surface can prevent new paint from adhering. Remove this powder with a soap and water wash.
  • Cracks and shrinking or missing caulk allow moisture to seep behind siding and trim. Remove caulk and repair cracks.

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    Kitchen - Out With The Bad Air
    Whisk cooking odors and steam out of your kitchen before they damage your furnishings.

    With its wonderful aromas of simmering meals, it's no wonder we consider the kitchen the heart of the home. If your kitchen lacks ventilation, however, it's also likely to be the most polluted room. Why? If cooking pollutants aren't vented out of the house, they are eventually absorbed into furnishings, carpeting, even walls. As a result, frequent cleaning is necessary, paint peels, and condensation may damage walls as well as woodwork. To solve the problem follow these guidelines to collect, remove, and vent airborne impurities.

    UPDRAFT VENTILATION The traditional range hood draws contaminated air up from the range top. A blower inside the hood draws fumes in, passes them through a filter to remove some impurities, and exhausts the fumes outdoors through duct. Installation of updraft systems requires ductwork through the roof or up to a ceiling and through an outside wall.

    DOWNDRAFT VENTILATION Downdraft systems operate right on the range top to pull fumes down into an air grille usually installed between burners. There, fumes pass through a filter and out ducts to the outside. Unlike a range hood, which can be installed above any type of range, a downdraft system comes as part of the range. You can duct downdraft ranges between floor joists or directly through a wall.

    SIZING AND INSTALLATION Allowable duct diameters and run lengths depend on the number of bends and the blower size. It is generally best to keep runs short and straight, and always best to vent to the outdoors.

    A useful standard of comparison among blowers is air movement measured in cubic feet per minute (cfm). For a 36 inch range mounted against a wall but a range hood with a 120 cfm rating, an island or peninsula range required a 150 cam rating. Downdraft ranges arc sized by the manufacturer and depend on duct length and configuration. Sones rate the sound level of blowers. Lower numbers mean quieter units.


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